Author | Message | ||
simon flack |
I have a MM amp chassis no 2275-150 EX, serial no B011724 and need to replace the Reverb/Tremolo footswitch. Does anyone know whether part 0994051000 on http://www.fender.com/products/show.php? partno=0994050000 would do the trick . The phono plugs do not look to be encased. Is this correct? Also the phono plugs do not seem to be right angled. Will this type stick out the back of the amp and get damaged eventually? Thabks for your help and congrats on a great site. | ||
Terry |
The foot switch is a simple circuit similar but uses [two independent shielded cables] for the vibrato and the reverb circuits and SPST Push button switches to "open" or "short" each cable. The Fender footswitch will not work as is, it will need a new shielded cable. | ||
Simon Flack |
Terry - Many thanks for the info. I'll try and restore the original one. Do you know if you can still get the switches , as I think the Tremolo switch on mine is a bit iffy. | ||
Terry |
OK you can get one at http://www.tubesandmore.com/ Keep the musicman footswitch. | ||
Simon Flack |
You sure can. Thanks. I'll see if I can get delivery to the UK. Unfortunately they don't do right angle RCA phono plugs. The originals have been replaced with ordinary phono plugs that stick out the back of the amp and are liable to get damaged. I assume the originals were r/angle plugs. I got some replacement r/angle plugs but they are really flimsy plastic items. Not road worthy at all ! | ||
Simon Flack |
I purchased a new foot-switch cable with two independent shielded cables with phono plugs. When wiring up to the foot-switch (reverb and phaser) the phaser is a simple connection : screen to one terminal, centre cable to the other. On the reverb however the connection is the same but the screen lead also attaches to the case of the footswitch. I am having trouble getting a good soldered joint onto the case - is this necessary as I notice the switch seems to function ok without it or is it a safety thing. | ||
Steve Kennedy |
That "chassis" connection in the foostwitch is probably there to help prevent you from getting your butt kicked by a shock that can be induced when reaching down to pick-up your footswitch while touching some other piece of equipment with a different chassis potential. Steve | ||
Simon Flack |
Thanks Steve. I'll continue trying to get a good soldered joint onto the footswitch case ! Great site by the way. | ||
Steve Kennedy |
Another way to do this is to get a grounding-ring or ground-lug that is simply a star washer that goes around the threaded shaft of one of the footswitches (between the switch and the chassis) and has a "lug" or arm that extends outward to provide a soldering point. This gives you a connecting point that has a "bite" and is held tight to the chassis (as long as the switch itself is tightly attached) without trying to solder directly to the metal (which may not be solderable if not plated in a compatible fashion). Steve |
Tue, 03/25/2014 - 09:48
#1
MM Amps
MM Amps