Author | Message | ||
gotdablues |
Need new speakers for my212-65 any recomendations? Was thinking greenbacks. How many ohms should the speakers be?? Thanks | ||
Terry |
You will need 8 OHM speakers, That is what the Musicman speakers are. I have not heard any greenbacks in a cabinet with a musicman amp | ||
John Trigg |
I'm a recent - and very fortunate - MM owner. A 112 sixty five. What were the original speakers in this type - I am pretty sure it's pre '78. The speaker in mine has no obvious identification - it has a large circular aluminium (I think) magnet cover - a dull 'silvery color'. Any ideas? JT | ||
Terry |
John The original speaker would be a Eminence in a 112. I do not think you can get a EV 12L in a 112. I think it will hit the output transformer. They did use EV and Eminence in 212. You may have a Altec or a EV-RSO, they have covers on the magnet. | ||
John Trigg |
Thanks Terry...Would there be any identification on the front of the speaker? Obviously I haven't taken it out yet...the new baby syndrome;) John | ||
Jens |
I have got a 212-RH cabinet. On both speaker units the "paper" ring, that is on the perimeter of the speaker, has begun to fall off. Do i need to find replacements, fix it or is it harmless ? I havn't got a clue Jens | ||
Steve Kennedy |
The paper ring on many loudspeakers serves multiple purposes. 1. The ring is used as a mounting washer to help adhere the cone to the frame. 2. The ring serves as a stand-off spacer for loudspeakers that are rear-mounted so that the cone will not "buzz" against the mounting surface itself (baffle board). 3. It can serve as a combination stand-off & washer to keep front-mounting hardware from striking the outer frame lip and deforming the basket on pressed-frame speakers. Since these rings are layered paper, they will tend to delaminate and the top will separate from the base. If none of the three items above are compromised in your situation I wouldn't worry about it! Steve | ||
Jens |
Thanks Steve I will get some new ones, just to be on the safe side. Jens | ||
cedric |
hey Jens - where did you get those replacements from? and where are you form in Denmark? jeg er selv herfra. ;) - ced (rasmusebay@hotmail.com) | ||
Joe R |
need to replace speakers in my music man 212-65 combo amp. Its a 1974. stock it came with alnico speakers with 18 oz magnets. How many watts were the original speakers? im not sure if im going to replace with alnico speakers. Do you have any suggestions for replacements?? thanks | ||
wayne petrosko |
Joe, i just had my 210's redone for like 40 bucks each. they came back as good as new, i guess i just like keep things as original as i can. i really never thought that they sounded bad or needed to sound different than they did when new. just a thought. | ||
Joe R |
wayne, I am considering getting the speakers reconed, thanks | ||
joe R |
Any one out there have any suggestions for replacement speakers for my 212-65. How many watts should they be?? | ||
Dave R |
I have a stock '76 115-65, and am not an electronics guy. I'm not sure what my speaker impediance switch should be set to, 4 or 8 ohms. I have a multimeter that measures ohms, and get a reading of about .5 ohms across the the two terminals on the speaker. When measured across the tip and sleeve of the input plug, I get about 6.1 ohms. Both these measurements jump around quite a bit before seeming to settle at the approoximates above. I've used this amp for a while at low settings with the switch set as I got it in the 4 ohm position and to date haven't had any problems, but does this sound ok? I know ohms and impediance are technically different but also used interchangably. In case this matters, it says under the two speaker input jacks that they are wired in series. I only use the onboard speaker pluged into the the input jack on the left. Thanks for any help any of you guys can provide. | ||
Steve Kennedy |
The actual "correct" setting for your amp (using only the internal speaker) is the "8-ohm" position. However, running it in the "4-ohm" position probably wouldn't hurt anything! Generally, most tube amps can tolerate a 100% mismatch between the transformer winding & speaker. When using a multimeter to measure the speaker, the reason it doesn't read 8-ohms is the fact that the meter is reading only resistance. Resistance is only one element in the complex "impedance" equation. Typically, an 8-ohm speaker will measure 5-6 ohms of resistance & a 4-0hm speaker about 3 ohms. Steve | ||
David Spence |
I have a 112-75, and I have a few questions that I hope someone can answer, b/c I'm not much of an electronics guy! First, every now and then, when I play with the master and channel knobs set at 4-5 (normal concert level for me), after about half an hour, the speaker starts distorting horribly, which it didn't used to do. Is that normal, or do I need to replace the cone? Second, if I do need to replace it, what would be the best cone to get that would give me the original sound? And finally, is it possible to run two cones instead of one through the amp, would there be any advantages, and what size cones and such would I need to get? Thanks to anyone who can help me out! I bought this amp used from a former senior pastor at my church, so I have no manual or anything for it. Visit my band's site. www.kineticminority.com | ||
Jan Tangfeldt |
Hello from Sweden. I got a 210HD-130 from 1975, and I just wonder if anyone knows who manufactured the speakers. Are there any good replacements for them? | ||
Terry |
Nice to hear from Sweden. The speaker in the 2/10 were made buy Eminence. You can still get them reconed! I like the big boys EV..Altec.. I think Celestion makes vintage 30 in ten inch. | ||
Anonymous |
Hi from Norway! I`ve just got my hands on a MM 112-RD-100(78-79?). Problem is it`s distortion channel; once the gain goes over 3 it sounds horrible to me, even at low volume.The clean channel is great(at 0-1 gain).I recently changed tubes(2*6L6)whitout any result.The speaker installed is a Carvin Vintage Series 12".Could this be the troublemaker?What was the original speaker and are there any good alternatives to this??? Hope for an answer.. Foss | ||
Steve Kennedy |
The distortion channel is SUPPOSED to distort... as a matter of fact, it isn't a "channel" at all as the RD series are single channel amplifiers. Selecting the "Distortion" mode simply inserts a distortion-generating circuit. This distortion circuit is not particularly high gain by nature and does NOT sound like a Marshall or a Fender. If you drive it harder than instrument level I think it sounds better. It will also sound a lot better driving the amp with a high-gain humbucking pickup rather than a single coil. If you had a speaker problem, this typically would occur regardless of whether you played clean or distorted (assuming the same volume level was maintained). There is always a possibility you have an amplifier problem but it appears that the amp is working as it should and you might have been expecting something different. | ||
David Spence |
I have a 112-75, and I have a few questions that I hope someone can answer, b/c I'm not much of an electronics guy! First, every now and then, when I play with the master and channel knobs set at 4-5 (normal concert level for me), after about half an hour, the speaker starts distorting horribly, which it didn't used to do. Is that normal, or do I need to replace the cone? Second, if I do need to replace it, what would be the best cone to get that would give me the original sound? And finally, is it possible to run two cones instead of one through the amp, would there be any advantages, and what size cones and such would I need to get? Thanks to anyone who can help me out! | ||
Steve Kennedy |
First, get an extension cabinet and use THAT instead of your built-in speaker. Does it also distort after a period of time while playing the amp? If so, then your amp is causing the problem and not the speaker. If the extension cabinet never distorts then it could be a speaker problem but it is more likely to be an amp problem, probably related to heat. It could be a solid-state device, a tube, or a passive component (cap or resistor). If it is an amp problem, it would need to be looked at by a technician. | ||
Joe Miner |
I have a MM 130 115HD with a JBL in it, I want to put the correct speaker back in it cause I don't like the JBL. What kind of EV speaker goes in it? | ||
Randy Flanagan |
I am looking down the road at the possibility that I may have to replace the speakers in my MM 410HD 130, I have looked at the Legend 102 & 105 through Eminence. Can anyone tell me which one would be the closest to the original, or should I look at a total different speaker? Thanks for any info anyone out there can give me. | ||
Steve Kennedy |
Right now, I'd probably look hard at the Eminence for their combined qualities of sound, construction, availability, and price. Try Dave at Avatar speakers for a good price! Personally, I went a slightly different route. About 5 or 6 years ago I had a Fender Princeton Chorus (stereo into 2 10" Fender drivers). The amp sounded good but was limited by the power it could develop. Just before I sold the amp on eBay, I spliced the pair of 10" drivers to my 1979 MM 410-65 amp. The speakers sounded great! I did some digging and was surprised to find a 75W RMS rating on the drivers and I waited for favorable pricing so I could order these speakers as a replacement part. I waited until Smart Parts had a "sale" on these speakers (about $30 each!) and I bought 4. Between my two 410-65 amps, I had 4 bad speakers. I took the 4 original good units and put them in my 1974 410-65. I installed the Fender drivers in the newer 410-65 (which is my standard "go-to" amp). The new drivers are a bit crisper than the aged original units, but it is surprising how good the amp sounds with "budget" loudspeakers. One thing I considered was that the original Music Man drivers were only rated at 35W RMS (mainly due to the materials in use at the time and the small voice coil diameter). In a 4-speaker parallel/series arrangement this was only marginally acceptable because as soon as you lost a driver, the others couldn't handle the remaining power (if played at full power) and other drivers would also fail. Since the Fender "Blue Label" "Special Design" 10" drivers are rated at 75W RMS, even 1 driver can handle all the power the amp can deliver. In addition to being good enough in the sound department, well constructed & cheap enough to make buying 4 of them easier, they are rated over 2X the power handling capacity of the old drivers so they ought to be really reliable. They kind of look like Eminence-made drivers but I have never confirmed this. While these drivers would have probably been a little marginal in a 410HD-130, they would work fine as long as you didn't play at full volume all the time! I ended up selling the old blown drivers to someone on the website who was going to get them reconed so they are still leading a useful life, even if not in my amp! | ||
B Grove |
I just got a 130 212 from my wife for christmas the speakers aren't original they are Edens 1260 F here is the info on the speakers are these suitable speakers or should I look into changing them out and if so to what? they sound great and everyone who hears them thinks so too. Here are the spec's what does all that mean?Thank you! Eden model EC 1260F 8 OHM 150 WATTS 12 inch Fs-42-45 Sen -100dBSPL Vas -5.51 ft. cu. Qms- 1.993 Qes -.3828 Qts-.3212 VC- 2" | ||
Steve Kennedy |
If you like the sound, then THAT (and the fact you already own them) should indicate that they are keepers! There may well be "speaker snobs" and others with passionate views about speakers who might cringe at your speaker, but I have always been of the opinion that if it works and I'm happy, that's all that really matters. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Steve | ||
Big D |
I have a nice music man 412GS with 67-7820 on the speaker rim and 451222-2 on the cone! They have big square magnets bolted on and sound real good.What kind of speaker is this? Where can I find replacement(used) or reconing cheap with good quality? Thanks! |
Tue, 03/25/2014 - 09:57
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