I guess the only "brag" would be I got a steal of a deal on it! Guy I bought it from opened up his van and I could smell it from 5 feet away. "Yeah, it's got that vintage smell" he says. More like a barn. Full of animals. Have yet to fire it up due to smell and speaker issues but the purchase price allows a lot of room for repairs, if needed.
I totally forgot to take a pic of the whole amp before I started disassembling it, but added a few photos.
Notes:
-Faceplate pretty scratched up but readable, every knob's white paint is gone, input jacks clearly dirty.
-Can't tell if it's dirt or rust (or both) but the chassis is FULL of it. Going to vacuum it out tonight.
-Has relatively new JJ tubes. The caps all look to be in good shape. Have not checked the filter caps yet.
-Typical used amp purchase: had 8A fuse instead of 5A. Replaced.
-Original footswitch. Looks bad but functional (per DMM test).
-Speakers are 60W Celestion G10 but one is 8Ω, the other is 16Ω. Argh. Speaker plug missing.
- -Can anyone identify these markings on the side of the chassis?
-And is this a date code on the reverb tank?
Looking forward to getting it cleaned up, assembled, and tested (and hopefully rocking).
-hc803
(edit: 2275-65 chassis)
GAWD, that IS nasty. Good
GAWD, that IS nasty. Good luck. Did the PO SAY it worked? I'd fire that one up with a limiter or a light bulb limiter the first time. Mike.
No clue if it works
Didn't even bother asking because the price was too good to pass up.
Took the grill & speakers out, one is reading high, around 9 ohms. Bad voice coil or result of being paired with a 16?
Probably just bad. I see it
Probably just bad. I see it's the PI tube type. Good amp. I have one. I have seen (heard?) that somebody has the right knobs on ebay somewhere, Mike
Filter cap question
the filter caps under the doghouse are bubbled and need replacing. (2) 20uF@450V, (2) 100uF@450V. are these values correct? why can't I find the 20uF's on the schematic? any other caps I should replace, short of doing an entire re-cap job?
C42 and C43
In the power supply section of the schematic (lower right), look on the left side of the 3Hy filter choke and below test points F and G. That amp has had a hard life. Glad it has found a home that cares. Good luck with the resurrection. http://pacair.com/mmamps3/sites/default/files/docs/2100-130.pdf. Word of caution: Be careful with solvents. Check the pcb and chassis for hand written dates first. Record any you find and/or be careful to not wash them off. Just sayin...from experience. And yes, it's a good idea to replace all of the electrolytics. It doesn't cost that much extra.
thanks
My printed copy of the schematic is pretty illegible, not sure why I kept overlooking those. Has anyone on here uploaded a better scan of the original schematic for the 12ax7 version of 2275-65?
Make SURE you also replace
Make SURE you also replace any electrolytics on the bias supply board and the driver board. The 20 at 450's and 100's at 450 are right in the middle lower of the schematic and listed as being on the filter board. Mike.
Is that code for "all capacitors"?
If so, I'll have to revamp my order from Newark (btw, easier ordering & cheaper shipping than Mouser).
I almost find the original scanned schematic on here (page 2) unusable. Certainly someone out there has a better version!
Alternate Schematic
Hi William, Although for the 130 Watt model, this one is slightly more legible, but just barely. http://pacair.com/mmamps3/sites/default/files/docs/2475-130_and_2275-130... Check the 2nd schematic. Even though you have a 65 watt model, the power supply circuit components are the same. Same is true for the bias supply and driver board. As bad as they are, they're better than nothing. Like mm210 says, replace the eletrolytics in both power supplies (Hi and Lo Voltage), the bias supply and the driver board. There aren't many others after that. At some point you'll want to check the 16v zener diode voltage regulators (D4 and D5) on the bias supply. If they look burnt or the PCB looks burnt, consider replacing them too.
Thanks
I actually found a scan that mm210 put up via the googles that is a little clearer. Between that and the 130 I'm good.
Still working on getting the smell out of the cabinet & baffle/grill. Been using soapy water & brush, iso alcohol, and mean green but may have to ramp up to something more powerful.
Perfume
Maybe steal your wife's perfume and dose it up. Just kidding. Try adding some baking soda to the soapy water.
Schematic for 210 65
I emailed Steve scans of my original 210 65 schematic, both in gif and pdf format. They are too big to upload as a message attachment. Can't seem to find them on the site, maybe ask Steve where he posted them?